It seems only fitting that the first CTML post in, well, too friggin’ long is an entry for DBGB Kitchen and Bar, another Daniel Boulud joint which, by my count, brings the number of NYC restaurants in his empire to roughly 38. (Granted, I could be mistaken; read on for the litany of perfectly reasonable excuses.)
DBGB is the real deal: a place for people who are serious about food and drink and, frankly, little else. The menu is some weird Franco/German/Belgian melange that I’m sure is familiar and even quaint to a certain subset of the population that’s perpetually wrestling with the Euro-USD exchange rate and trying to assemble the perfect hand-rolled cigarette.
For me and my companions, however, it was all new and, to the item, delicious. DBGB is famous for its hand-made sausages and did not disappoint. From andoulli to Korean-style to a perfectly seasoned chorizo number, the bangers were bangin’. But even beyond those mainstays, the meal was superb—and trust me, we tucked into a wide range of dishes looking for flaws. Standouts included cod with artichokes and fennel, mussels in a positively heady pesto-infused broth and a uniquely interpreted peach cobbler.
Almost as impressive as the food was the booze. DBGB has a fairly extraordinary collection of beers, and we sampled several, including a wonderfully light and summery German Kolsch (those are imaginary umlats over the ‘o’). The highlight, however, was the Trappist Rochefort 10, which my companions and I dubbed the the finest beer we’d ever consumed. (Yes, really.)
As for the loo…y’know, you can’t do everything right. The potties are actually a series of one-seaters lined up at the back of the house. Like the rest of the place, they’re focused on function more so than form, with sparse-but-tasteful decor (the wallpaper is, I presume, custom, and features b/w renderings of the copper cooking vessels that line the main dining room, accompanied by nameplates of famous chefs who, presumably, endorse their use). Given this, it was disappointing that my stall wasn’t sufficiently well maintained to ensure that TP didn’t run out.
Regardless, DBGB gets high praise and, by extension, high marks…
Rating of chew: 4.5 out of 5
Rating of loo: 3 out of 5